The Coat Is Doing Most of the Talking.

You spend twenty minutes choosing what to wear.

Then you put on a coat, leave the house, and nobody sees any of it.

For a considerable part of the year, the coat is the outfit people actually meet first. I think it deserves a little more attention than being whatever we grab on the way out.

And sometimes, as in this photograph, I’m quite happy to let it take the lead.

Start with the shape.

A long coat creates a line before you add anything else.

In this look, the black turtleneck keeps the neckline simple, while the skirt and boots continue the colour underneath. The open coat frames the outfit and lets the different textures show.

There is already plenty happening: leather, movement, a slit in the skirt, the length of the boots.

I wouldn’t add a complicated scarf or several competing accessories. The sunglasses have quite enough to say.

With a generous wool coat, I often like a more defined shape underneath: straight trousers, a fine knit, or a dress that doesn’t add too much volume.

The useful test happens in front of the mirror, with the coat both open and closed.

You should like what it does in either position.

A trench can change its mood completely.

A trench over jeans, a white shirt and loafers feels easy and ready for the day.

Over a simple dress with boots, the same trench takes on a different character.

The belt makes a difference, too.

Tied at the waist, it gives definition. Loosely fastened, it feels more relaxed. When wearing the trench open, securing the belt behind you keeps it from trailing around while leaving the front clean.

I like details that make a garment work with you. Spending the afternoon retrieving a belt from door handles becomes tiresome remarkably quickly.

Try the shoes before deciding on the length.

The relationship between the hem and the shoes can change the whole outfit.

With a midi skirt, knee-high boots can create a continuous line beneath the fabric. With trousers, I check how the trouser hem sits over the shoe and how much of it appears below the coat.

There is no need to follow a mathematical formula.

Put the complete outfit on. Walk a few steps. Sit down. Look again.

A coat can be beautiful on a hanger and surprisingly demanding once you introduce stairs, a handbag and somewhere to be.

Give colour a clear role.

Black, camel, navy and cream give you plenty of combinations to work with.

A camel coat over black brings warmth to the outfit.

Navy works beautifully with denim and a pale knit.

A cream coat can make even a simple combination feel considered.

And when the coat itself has a strong colour, I like giving it enough space to be noticed.

You don’t have to repeat that colour in the bag, shoes and earrings. One confident choice can carry the look.

Wear it properly.

I enjoy a dramatic coat. Clearly.

But I also want to be able to move, use the pockets and close it when it gets cold.

Check the shoulders. Try it over the knitwear you actually wear. Make sure the sleeves allow you to reach forward comfortably.

Then enjoy what it brings to an ordinary entrance.

Some days, you only need to buy bread.

There is no reason the coat has to know that.

And if the outfit is coming out for the evening, there is one more test I always consider: can I sit down in it?

Silvia